Adding Screws, Nails or Staples. We've done dozens of repairs after a client tried the kit and realized after a few short days that it didn't work. Any help is appreciated. They originally fastened it, so why can't it be refastened with them?We might only be squeak repair experts and not interior designers, but we don't care for the look of a floor riddled with screw heads and shiny nail heads. I wouldn't use those if I couldn't get to the subfloor. Don This is what I would use through carpet:
If you thought refastening your squeaky floors with regular nails, screws and staples was as bad as it got, you're in for a surprise. So, if you plan to cover up the area that you fastened (with a finished ceiling) these products may only add to your squeaks in the future. These Squeak-Ender is a website that offers a variety of products (mostly brackets) that aim to fasten and support the joist to subfloor junction. Then I found deck screws.
If you have other tips and tricks that you would like to get a second opinion on, let us know! Is there anything worse than a squeaky floor in the middle of the night? Fortunately, you don’t have to settle for the thought of avoiding that spot on the floor every time you walk by. Not ony did it not work, it left nasty metal pins above the surfave of the floor.
When installing these screws, be sure to counter-sink them to make sure that the head of the screw won’t present a tripping hazard. The idea is to push a thin wedge of wood into the gap in-between your joist and subfloor in areas that are causing noise when stepped on. Keep in mind this works best if you're standing directly over the spot where you're drilling so that your weight is helping hold the two surfaces together as you're installing the screw.
I'm trying to figure out what combination of plywood I need to stack to match this but I suck at math, especially fractions.
Great!Wedging a shim between joist and subfloor is typical advice for creak elimination. At the end of the 13ft, there will be a load bearing wall continuing the rest of the floor span.
All information is provided "AS IS." I see. You'll be surprised how quick fasteners used on problem areas of a floor start making noise. The wall directly above the beam is also a load bearing wall for the attic; again, empty.
The worst part is that often the new squeaks reveal themselves only a while after your initial repair, making for a nasty surprise!Well if more screws, nails, brackets and other products are only going to contribute to the squeak, might as well think outside the box and look for methods that won't end up making noise.In practice, however, the solution rarely works, and when it does, it is incredibly temporary. Thank you for the replies! Before you can set to work fixing the floor, you must first establish the type of sound the floor is making to help determine how to fix the squeaky floor. Would those be OK? The sub-floor is exposed. Things to note; I am on a crawl space; the center supporting pier for the main floor support is exactly 36 inches from where the header will stop; the pier splits the main floor support; the load bearing wall sits right on top of a floor joist that is also 2x8. The smooth, narrow and practically headless nails have almost no strength to stay put. However, its dependent on having open access to the beam from underneath (which isn't available in homes with finished basements or squeaky floors on an upper level). There may also be some contributing factors that are causing the noisy floors; a warped joist is just one potential cause of squeaky floors. The joists are 22 foot in length, 2x8, spaced 12 inches apart and are continuous (do not stop at the beam).I have a second floor and attic (that is empty) and is constructed with rafters. Also check that the squeaking is not coming from the subfloor panels rubbing against each other. Next time use SPAX.....no predrilling. We welcome your comments and You are just adding ugly nails that will loosen and rust, especially in high traffic areas. How thick should this beam be? my subfloor (Plywood) is still squeaking even after putting screws in....
My home has squeaky subfloor almost in every room.
Adding Screws, Nails or Staples. We've done dozens of repairs after a client tried the kit and realized after a few short days that it didn't work. Any help is appreciated. They originally fastened it, so why can't it be refastened with them?We might only be squeak repair experts and not interior designers, but we don't care for the look of a floor riddled with screw heads and shiny nail heads. I wouldn't use those if I couldn't get to the subfloor. Don This is what I would use through carpet:
If you thought refastening your squeaky floors with regular nails, screws and staples was as bad as it got, you're in for a surprise. So, if you plan to cover up the area that you fastened (with a finished ceiling) these products may only add to your squeaks in the future. These Squeak-Ender is a website that offers a variety of products (mostly brackets) that aim to fasten and support the joist to subfloor junction. Then I found deck screws.
If you have other tips and tricks that you would like to get a second opinion on, let us know! Is there anything worse than a squeaky floor in the middle of the night? Fortunately, you don’t have to settle for the thought of avoiding that spot on the floor every time you walk by. Not ony did it not work, it left nasty metal pins above the surfave of the floor.
When installing these screws, be sure to counter-sink them to make sure that the head of the screw won’t present a tripping hazard. The idea is to push a thin wedge of wood into the gap in-between your joist and subfloor in areas that are causing noise when stepped on. Keep in mind this works best if you're standing directly over the spot where you're drilling so that your weight is helping hold the two surfaces together as you're installing the screw.
I'm trying to figure out what combination of plywood I need to stack to match this but I suck at math, especially fractions.
Great!Wedging a shim between joist and subfloor is typical advice for creak elimination. At the end of the 13ft, there will be a load bearing wall continuing the rest of the floor span.
All information is provided "AS IS." I see. You'll be surprised how quick fasteners used on problem areas of a floor start making noise. The wall directly above the beam is also a load bearing wall for the attic; again, empty.
The worst part is that often the new squeaks reveal themselves only a while after your initial repair, making for a nasty surprise!Well if more screws, nails, brackets and other products are only going to contribute to the squeak, might as well think outside the box and look for methods that won't end up making noise.In practice, however, the solution rarely works, and when it does, it is incredibly temporary. Thank you for the replies! Before you can set to work fixing the floor, you must first establish the type of sound the floor is making to help determine how to fix the squeaky floor. Would those be OK? The sub-floor is exposed. Things to note; I am on a crawl space; the center supporting pier for the main floor support is exactly 36 inches from where the header will stop; the pier splits the main floor support; the load bearing wall sits right on top of a floor joist that is also 2x8. The smooth, narrow and practically headless nails have almost no strength to stay put. However, its dependent on having open access to the beam from underneath (which isn't available in homes with finished basements or squeaky floors on an upper level). There may also be some contributing factors that are causing the noisy floors; a warped joist is just one potential cause of squeaky floors. The joists are 22 foot in length, 2x8, spaced 12 inches apart and are continuous (do not stop at the beam).I have a second floor and attic (that is empty) and is constructed with rafters. Also check that the squeaking is not coming from the subfloor panels rubbing against each other. Next time use SPAX.....no predrilling. We welcome your comments and You are just adding ugly nails that will loosen and rust, especially in high traffic areas. How thick should this beam be? my subfloor (Plywood) is still squeaking even after putting screws in....
My home has squeaky subfloor almost in every room.
Adding Screws, Nails or Staples. We've done dozens of repairs after a client tried the kit and realized after a few short days that it didn't work. Any help is appreciated. They originally fastened it, so why can't it be refastened with them?We might only be squeak repair experts and not interior designers, but we don't care for the look of a floor riddled with screw heads and shiny nail heads. I wouldn't use those if I couldn't get to the subfloor. Don This is what I would use through carpet:
If you thought refastening your squeaky floors with regular nails, screws and staples was as bad as it got, you're in for a surprise. So, if you plan to cover up the area that you fastened (with a finished ceiling) these products may only add to your squeaks in the future. These Squeak-Ender is a website that offers a variety of products (mostly brackets) that aim to fasten and support the joist to subfloor junction. Then I found deck screws.
If you have other tips and tricks that you would like to get a second opinion on, let us know! Is there anything worse than a squeaky floor in the middle of the night? Fortunately, you don’t have to settle for the thought of avoiding that spot on the floor every time you walk by. Not ony did it not work, it left nasty metal pins above the surfave of the floor.
When installing these screws, be sure to counter-sink them to make sure that the head of the screw won’t present a tripping hazard. The idea is to push a thin wedge of wood into the gap in-between your joist and subfloor in areas that are causing noise when stepped on. Keep in mind this works best if you're standing directly over the spot where you're drilling so that your weight is helping hold the two surfaces together as you're installing the screw.
I'm trying to figure out what combination of plywood I need to stack to match this but I suck at math, especially fractions.
Great!Wedging a shim between joist and subfloor is typical advice for creak elimination. At the end of the 13ft, there will be a load bearing wall continuing the rest of the floor span.
All information is provided "AS IS." I see. You'll be surprised how quick fasteners used on problem areas of a floor start making noise. The wall directly above the beam is also a load bearing wall for the attic; again, empty.
The worst part is that often the new squeaks reveal themselves only a while after your initial repair, making for a nasty surprise!Well if more screws, nails, brackets and other products are only going to contribute to the squeak, might as well think outside the box and look for methods that won't end up making noise.In practice, however, the solution rarely works, and when it does, it is incredibly temporary. Thank you for the replies! Before you can set to work fixing the floor, you must first establish the type of sound the floor is making to help determine how to fix the squeaky floor. Would those be OK? The sub-floor is exposed. Things to note; I am on a crawl space; the center supporting pier for the main floor support is exactly 36 inches from where the header will stop; the pier splits the main floor support; the load bearing wall sits right on top of a floor joist that is also 2x8. The smooth, narrow and practically headless nails have almost no strength to stay put. However, its dependent on having open access to the beam from underneath (which isn't available in homes with finished basements or squeaky floors on an upper level). There may also be some contributing factors that are causing the noisy floors; a warped joist is just one potential cause of squeaky floors. The joists are 22 foot in length, 2x8, spaced 12 inches apart and are continuous (do not stop at the beam).I have a second floor and attic (that is empty) and is constructed with rafters. Also check that the squeaking is not coming from the subfloor panels rubbing against each other. Next time use SPAX.....no predrilling. We welcome your comments and You are just adding ugly nails that will loosen and rust, especially in high traffic areas. How thick should this beam be? my subfloor (Plywood) is still squeaking even after putting screws in....
My home has squeaky subfloor almost in every room.
I've had many middle of the night, 3 a.m. excursions for a sip of water turn into a tuneless symphony of noise from my floor. If you need another reason, then consider the integrity of your floor. The flooring is 1-1/8" thick.
Adding Screws, Nails or Staples. We've done dozens of repairs after a client tried the kit and realized after a few short days that it didn't work. Any help is appreciated. They originally fastened it, so why can't it be refastened with them?We might only be squeak repair experts and not interior designers, but we don't care for the look of a floor riddled with screw heads and shiny nail heads. I wouldn't use those if I couldn't get to the subfloor. Don This is what I would use through carpet:
If you thought refastening your squeaky floors with regular nails, screws and staples was as bad as it got, you're in for a surprise. So, if you plan to cover up the area that you fastened (with a finished ceiling) these products may only add to your squeaks in the future. These Squeak-Ender is a website that offers a variety of products (mostly brackets) that aim to fasten and support the joist to subfloor junction. Then I found deck screws.
If you have other tips and tricks that you would like to get a second opinion on, let us know! Is there anything worse than a squeaky floor in the middle of the night? Fortunately, you don’t have to settle for the thought of avoiding that spot on the floor every time you walk by. Not ony did it not work, it left nasty metal pins above the surfave of the floor.
When installing these screws, be sure to counter-sink them to make sure that the head of the screw won’t present a tripping hazard. The idea is to push a thin wedge of wood into the gap in-between your joist and subfloor in areas that are causing noise when stepped on. Keep in mind this works best if you're standing directly over the spot where you're drilling so that your weight is helping hold the two surfaces together as you're installing the screw.
I'm trying to figure out what combination of plywood I need to stack to match this but I suck at math, especially fractions.
Great!Wedging a shim between joist and subfloor is typical advice for creak elimination. At the end of the 13ft, there will be a load bearing wall continuing the rest of the floor span.
All information is provided "AS IS." I see. You'll be surprised how quick fasteners used on problem areas of a floor start making noise. The wall directly above the beam is also a load bearing wall for the attic; again, empty.
The worst part is that often the new squeaks reveal themselves only a while after your initial repair, making for a nasty surprise!Well if more screws, nails, brackets and other products are only going to contribute to the squeak, might as well think outside the box and look for methods that won't end up making noise.In practice, however, the solution rarely works, and when it does, it is incredibly temporary. Thank you for the replies! Before you can set to work fixing the floor, you must first establish the type of sound the floor is making to help determine how to fix the squeaky floor. Would those be OK? The sub-floor is exposed. Things to note; I am on a crawl space; the center supporting pier for the main floor support is exactly 36 inches from where the header will stop; the pier splits the main floor support; the load bearing wall sits right on top of a floor joist that is also 2x8. The smooth, narrow and practically headless nails have almost no strength to stay put. However, its dependent on having open access to the beam from underneath (which isn't available in homes with finished basements or squeaky floors on an upper level). There may also be some contributing factors that are causing the noisy floors; a warped joist is just one potential cause of squeaky floors. The joists are 22 foot in length, 2x8, spaced 12 inches apart and are continuous (do not stop at the beam).I have a second floor and attic (that is empty) and is constructed with rafters. Also check that the squeaking is not coming from the subfloor panels rubbing against each other. Next time use SPAX.....no predrilling. We welcome your comments and You are just adding ugly nails that will loosen and rust, especially in high traffic areas. How thick should this beam be? my subfloor (Plywood) is still squeaking even after putting screws in....
My home has squeaky subfloor almost in every room.
